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WEST COAST CRUISE PART 2 – APRIL 2010
We returned from the first part of the West Coast Cruise with unfinished business. Neither had we managed to get around Stompneus Point into St. Helena Bay, nor had we been able to track down the elusive kreef! It just seemed crazy to bring Gulliver back to Knysna without completing the exercise.
Unfortunately, Allan & Frank were unable to join us but Franz & I set off on the morning of Thursday, 22nd April, for the long drive to Langebaan. We should have taken a GPS with us because we succeeded in getting lost in Atlantis by trying to take a shortcut.
To my great relief, we found Gulliver in perfect condition. She was clean & dry inside. The shore power had not tripped, as I had feared, so the batteries had handled the fridges with no problem. The whole electrical system on the boat was done by “Hutch”, from C-Dynamics. Very little was accomplished without a long string of expletives but, 4 years later, I can honestly say we have had absolutely not one problem!
A quick bite at Club Mykonos & we hit the sack. The Friday morning dawned clear, with little wind. We quickly cast off & set out for Paternoster, where we planned to stop for lunch. A little sailing & a little motoring saw us arrive in this beautiful bay around mid-day.

As luck would have it, crayfish season had closed a week earlier & we still could not satisfy the lust! Nevertheless, we had a lunch of Dorado, which kinda smelled a bit fishy. Not long after, we found out that the Dorado had, indeed, been suspect. We left a brown trail all the way to Stompneus Baai!
Both feeling really crook, we sought out a quiet corner in which to drop the hook and, after an early dinner of soup & rolls, crashed, to sleep off the effects of the Dorado.
The new morning dawned absolutely clear & crisp. We quietly upped anchor & motored slowly round, in the chilly dawn, to Sandy Point Harbour, where we dropped the hook & Franz prepared a “remedial” breakfast, to try & replace that which we had lost during the previous few hours!

This settled the tummies & we moved slowly off towards Port Owen.
With not a breath of wind and a non-existent swell, it was truly spectacular. We passed hundreds of Cormorants, a couple of Pelicans and many seals, before entering the Berg River, which winds up to the pretty little harbour of Port Owen, past the fishing fleet moored at the mouth of the river.

Port Owen was chokka-block and we could not find a mooring. Just as we were despondently leaving, an Admiral 40 came out. Using Herr Sprung’s charm on the wife of the skipper bought us an hour & a half’s use of their mooring, with stern warnings from the husband not to overstay our welcome! It was great to go ashore in such a clean & pretty spot. We hauled the fold-up bikes out of the forehead lazarette & cycled around the area. The idea had been to spend the night there but, with no mooring available, we had to move on.

St. Helena Bay was like a lake. It was so clear that we could see all the way to Elands Bay point. Franz prepared a super lunch as we motored across the bay to Stompneus Point. The plan was to stop for the night in Britannia Bay but we got there just after lunch & decided to press on to Paternoster. Franz was very keen to get back there &, when we arrived after an absolute cracker of a sail, beating upwind at 9 – 10 knots, it became apparent as to just why he was so keen to get back there. The binoculars were scanning the beach for a possible deal!
Finally, we spotted a little boat approaching the beach and we jumped in our duck & sped off to intercept the fishermen. I had to run up the beach & stop their bakkie as they were leaving. A truly South African scene then played itself out! We haggled about the price and finally settled on that. Then the counting began. These guys (about 10 had gathered by then), were all thoroughly dronk &, we suspect, smoked up as well. They repeatedly tried to crook us by counting incorrectly. After catching them trying to cheat us 3 times, I made them tip the whole lot out & start again! The chatter was unbelievable but we were really excited to grab our haul & get back to Gulliver.
Then began the process of euthanasing the poor critters. This was done very humanely by submersing them in fresh water. Then, into plastic bags & into the freezer. It was handled with surgical precision by our resident chef, Franz!


As any good chef will do, a couple found their way straight onto the braai! Another gourmet meal! Fresh crayfish, done on the braai & chased down with a glass of ice cold wine. This is what we came for!
Sadly, we had to make our way back to Langebaan the following morning. We left early and motored close to the coast, stopping at Jacobs Baai to look at the shipwreck & the little village. It is easy to see why this coast is so treacherous. There are rocky outcrops everywhere & one needs to keep a close eye on the plotter & depth gauge.
Once back in the flat waters of Langebaan Lagoon, we dropped anchor off Schaap Island & had breakfast. The final cholesterol injection! That gave us the strength to tackle the mooring & big clean up.
After a good shower, we went off in the car to look for Dudley, who was sailing in the Nationals. We could not believe how many yachts were out on the water up in the NE corner of Saldanha Bay. There were hundreds of dinghies enjoying the sunny weather &, with a 15 knot breeze, conditions could not have been better.

The next morning, we hit “die lang pad” home. It gave us time to look back on the experiences that we had shared. One thing is very clear to me. Choosing the right weather window is crucial to the success of cruising in this area. With the sea temperature around 12 degrees, the slightest breeze cuts right through you so this is, for me, a summer destination. The natural beauty of the whole area, as barren as it is, is quite breathtaking.
More times than not, you will have an anchorage to yourself. There are many spectacular spots where one can drop the hook & enjoy a sheltered night. Many of these spots will allow you to go ashore & explore. In a country where the cruising possibilities are limited, this area truly is a jewel.
We all thoroughly enjoyed our time there & plans are already being discussed for next year’s cruise. Dick’s Pool & Mozambique?






