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WEST COAST CRUISE
It had long been a thought to take off with a bunch of friends and explore the cruising possibilities of the Western Cape. A couple of phone-calls is all it took to arrange the crew &, after organizing a mooring at Club Mykonos, the wait for a good weather window commenced.
As luck would have it, just such a gap made itself available on Tuesday, 5th April, just before Easter weekend. Gulliver, our Knysna 440 catamaran, which we bought as a hull, deck & bulkheads & completed in 2006, was fully prepared & we took off around 16h00 on an almost windless afternoon, through the Knysna Heads, on our way to Cape Town.
A few hours out, the predicted Easterly started to fill in and we had the ‘chute up to take advantage of a 15 knot following wind.
The crew, consisting of Franz Sprung and his son Frank, Allan Mudamaa and myself, quickly settled in to a two hour watch system and the miles clocked by.
The following afternoon, we passed Cape Agulhas, still with the ‘chute up, with the wind up to around 20 knots. We had aimed to angle out to the current, in the hope of picking up a Dorado or two but, with boat speeds averaging 10 knots and regular surfs up to 15 knots, the fishing proved a waste of time.
Just around sun up, on the following day, some 38 hours after leaving Knysna, we arrived at the V & A waterfront, having suffered the usual pasting off Llandudno, with 40 knot winds & very lumpy seas. We had not planned to stop in Cape Town but the boys wanted to hit the Crocs shop so we snuck in, had breakfast & left again, bound for Dassen Island, with great expectations of the crayfish dinner that would follow.
It was our first time at Dassen Island and the weather was perfect.
This was now the day before Good Friday and we were clearly not the only ones with the idea of a night in House Bay. Pretty soon, there were 5 boats lying at anchor. We quickly discovered that this crayfishing story is not so easy. The bait was rapidly devoured by a number of revolting, slimy snake-like fish (Hagfish) and the sum total of our efforts was two tiny crayfish, which we quickly returned to the sea.
Next morning, the fog had closed in and we quietly motored to Saldanha. The weather predictions indicated that the Southerly winds were going to pick up over the next few days so we decided to take advantage of the prevailing conditions & altered course for Paternoster. Fortunately, the fog burned off & we had a great sail up the coast, dropping the hook right off the beach, in the company of Catlyn, a Maverick 400.
By then, it was too windy to go ashore, tempted as we were by thoughts of a good supper at the Voorstrand Restaurant. Our resident chef, Franz & accomplished braai expert Allan, suitably “ge-oelie”, did an outstanding job & we enjoyed a great meal on the boat. At 06h00 next morning, we upped anchor & motored back to Saldanha, before the Southerly got up, to take up our mooring at Club Mykonos. We were greeted by the sight of a whale breaching just outside the entrance to the lagoon. Absolutely magic! After a wash & clean up, we decided that the wind was just right for a sail and we spent the next couple of hours enjoying the 20 knot winds, under full sail.
These are conditions that the Knysna 440 absolutely revels in. We blasted back & forth across the bay. The lagoon is quite shallow but, with a sharp eye on the plotter, we managed to dodge the banks. By then, the boys were getting hungry so we sought shelter at the Saldanha Bay Yacht Club. Arriving there around 15h00, we had a little snoop around and, fortuitously, discovered the Slipway Restaurant. Robbie Dove & the crew of Hot Ice were just leaving so we took their place at the jetty.
We were soon enjoying a fantastic meal, with Gulliver moored right in front of us. By now, it was getting late so we asked the management if we could stay at their jetty for the night. They were happy to oblige & locked us in!
What a magic little corner of Saldanha we had found, tucked away, out of the wind. Another memorable day came to an end.
We had promised to be gone from their jetty by 09hoo and so off we went, back to Club Mykonos. By now, the wind was blowing a solid 20 knots and we nipped in for a quick refuel with diesel, which provided its own challenges, trying to moor at the fuel dock, beam on. It’s then that one appreciates the shelter of Knysna Quays! That done, we took off for Kraal Baai.
That was a great decision as we found a good anchorage, with excellent holding, in the company of our sister ship, Genevieve, originally owned by Rudi Pretorius. Rudi & I had stepped our masts together & he had been kind enough to lend me a R5 coin (I never carry money) to place under the mast, honoring the age-old tradition. Genevieve is now owned by Johan Stemmet, of Noot vir Noot fame.
Fortunately, the wind, which was by now gusting over 25 knots, kept the jet-skis & water-skiers away. We had a long walk on the beach & remarked on how clean everything was. Considering the number of people there, this was commendable.
After another outstanding meal, whipped up by our gourmet chef, Franz, we settled down to watch a Crosby, Stills & Nash DVD. This went down so well that we followed it up with a Santana concert at full volume! The boys were stoked!
Next morning, we ambled back downwind to Club Mykonos. This Southern part of the lagoon is very shallow so we took our time & enjoyed the scenery. Our mooring at Mykonos is almost in the direct line of the harbour entrance and, with the wind now gusting 25 knots again, mooring was “interesting”. A big clean up ensued and we made ready to leave Gulliver to her own devices.
Obviously inspired by the previous night’s music, Allan entertained us & had us rolling around with his “air guitar” antics! The Troggs never sounded so good!
Next morning saw four tired but happy sailors take leave of Mykonos, to start the long drive home. We may have a fairly inhospitable coastline in SA but there are some superb spots to be explored, if one takes the time so wait for the correct weather. Plans are well advanced for Phase 2 of our West Coast Cruise. The anchorages of Stompneus Baai, Sandy Point, Slipper’s Bay & the marina at Port Owen are still there to explore!













